In cosmetic formulation, active ingredients are typically incorporated into a system via the water phase or the oil phase. However, formulators inevitably encounter active ingredients that are insoluble in water and difficult to formulate into transparent aqueous solutions.
Today, we introduce a solution for these difficult-to-dissolve actives: The Nano Essence Water Series.
The Nano Essence Water Series utilizes innovative solubilization technology to transform insoluble actives into transparent aqueous formulations. The droplet size ranges between 5-100nm. When an infrared beam passes through the liquid, the Tyndall effect is visible. This technology creates a stable, transparent micro-emulsion that penetrates the skin easily. Compared to ordinary emulsions, it possesses lower interfacial tension, thereby enhancing the permeability and efficacy of the active ingredients.
Currently, this solubilization technology is applicable to difficult-to-dissolve actives including Ceramide NP, SEPIWHITE MSH, SEPILIFT™ DPHP, Glabridin, Phytosphingosine, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.
- Particle Size: Transparent Nano Essence Water particle size ranges between 1-100nm.
- Visual Proof: The Tyndall effect is generated when an infrared light beam passes through the Nano Water.
The Nano Essence Water Technology
The Nano Essence Water is a precise nano-system constructed using a “Patented Emulsifying Composition” (patent currently under substantive examination) anchored by FLUIDIFEEL EASY. It can disperse and emulsify oil-soluble powder actives into transparent nano-emulsions under 100 nanometers.
01. Ceramide NP Single-Dose (Ampoule) Essence
Formula Code: VH20240808
As a primary component of intercellular lipids, Ceramide fills the spaces between corneocytes, reinforcing the bonding between keratinocytes, locking in moisture, and elevating barrier function.
This formula represents a breakthrough by applying a high content of 0.1% Ceramide NP in a transparent, pure aqueous system to repair the skin barrier. A patent application has been submitted for this formulation technology.
Featured Ingredient: ViableCare Ceramide NP
- INCI: Ceramide NP
- Description: Sourced from the fermentation products of proprietary preserved strains, this Ceramide NP can be applied in transparent aqueous agents, transparent oil agents, and emulsion systems, making it more versatile and easier to use.
02. DPHP Nano Essence Water
Formula Code: DZ241113
SEPILIFT™ DPHP is traditionally added to the oil phase of emulsion systems and cannot be made into a transparent aqueous solution. This formulation successfully processes DPHP into a transparent water format, significantly expanding its range of application.
Featured Ingredient: SEPILIFT™ DPHP
- INCI: Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
- Description: A classic anti-wrinkle ingredient from SEPPIC. Clinical data suggests that 1% SEPILIFT™ DPHP can provide moisturizing and firming effects in 28 days, and wrinkle reduction in 42 days.
03. MSH Nano Essence Water
Formula Code: DZ241112
SEPIWHITE MSH is typically dissolved in the oil phase using Octyldodecanol or neutralized with an alkali. In aqueous solutions, it usually requires a pH above 7 to dissolve. However, this formula allows for the application of SEPIWHITE MSH in an aqueous system at a pH of 5.15, enabling its use in weak acid systems.
Featured Ingredient: SEPIWHITE MSH
- INCI: Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
- Description: A representative of SEPPIC’s lipo-amino acids, it acts as an antagonist to the melanocyte-stimulating hormone α-MSH during melanin synthesis. It targets all stages of the melanin production reaction triggered by α-MSH and intercepts α-MSH signals upstream, inhibiting melanin production more comprehensively, rapidly, and effectively.
04. Phytosphingosine Nano Essence Water
Formula Code: DZ241112
Phytosphingosine is difficult to dissolve in both water and oil phases, making it an even more challenging ingredient than Ceramide. This formulation successfully applies it in an aqueous system that remains clear, transparent, and stable.
Featured Ingredient: Phytosphingosine
- INCI: Phytosphingosine
- Description: A lipid naturally present in the stratum corneum, it is a vital component for moisture retention and barrier repair. It exists both in free form and as a constituent of Ceramides. It possesses antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it an excellent natural anti-inflammatory agent.
05. Glabridin Nano Essence Water
Formula Code: DZ241107
Glabridin is generally added to the oil phase (often dissolved well with Lanol 99) or requires a large amount of 1,3-Butylene Glycol for dissolution. This formulation incorporates it into a transparent aqueous agent that remains clear.
Featured Ingredient: Glabridin C
- INCI: Glabridin
- Description: A whitening active ingredient that has seen rapid growth in recent years. It works by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing melanin formation, and achieving a skin-brightening effect.
- Efficacy Note: Tests using a whitening cream with 0.2% Turmeric Extract (Sabiwhite®) and 0.05% Glabridin (40%) showed results over 8 weeks.
06. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Nano Essence Water
Formula Code: DZ241113
While Palmitoyl-modified peptides have good transdermal absorption, they often suffer from poor solubility. This formulation incorporates 0.1% Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 into a transparent aqueous agent that is both clear and stable.
Featured Ingredient: JTBiotech® AntiW047
- INCI: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
- Description: A synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids, it is an effective raw material for preventing and fading wrinkles and firming the skin, resulting in a younger, smoother, and more elastic appearance. Simultaneously, it promotes the generation of collagen and elastin, improves skin water content and moisture retention, thereby reducing wrinkles and increasing skin elasticity. It demonstrates significant anti-wrinkle effects.
Summary
The innovative system introduced above, combining FLUIDIFEEL EASY with a specific solubilizer, is suitable for creating transparent aqueous formulations with difficult-to-dissolve actives such as Ceramide NP, SEPIWHITE MSH, SEPILIFT™ DPHP, Glabridin, Phytosphingosine, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.